Spring 2025 Retrospective and Wine Appreciation Edition

I haven’t quoted the Brooklyn National Anthem, “Ode to Spring,” in a while (since 2012) that I never tire of:

“Da spring is sprung

Da grass is riz

I wonder where dem boidies is?

Dem boids is on der wing.

Ain’t dat absoid?

Der little wings is on der boid!”

I never fail to marvel when, on April 15th, as regular as tax day, the vines burst forth as regularly as clockwork. Every bud, like every snowflake, is unique in its own right; every bud is the blessing that allows us to farm the grapes and make the wine that is our livelihood. No matter who is in power, nature carries on regardless and has done so since the beginning of time.

This spring, a cold spell in early April caused some damage, primarily to the Chardonnay, which typically breaks bud first. The cold spell served to cut back the yield – nature’s way of reducing the crop that, in the long run, will increase the fruit quality, thereby increasing the wine quality.

Our trusted vineyard manager went on a trip around the world while all this was happening, and thanks to Kovie and Alvino, everything in the vineyard was completed according to plan. Bill got back only to be asked: “Do you still work here?” We are glad to see Bill and his wife Di back from their travels!

All credit to Bill and the crew, who steadfastly work year in and year out to guarantee the quality of our grapes and, thereby, the quality of our wines. Don’t quote me on this old axiom, but:

The wine is made in the vineyard.

So, after all the woes of spring that I usually go on about, it was a good spring season. I am optimistic that we are entering the summer season with favorable expectations for a good harvest. (I deliberately put it that way to avoid sounding too positive so as not to spook it.)

Recent Awards

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Wine Appreciation and Sneak Preview

Every newsletter, I like to feature one of our wines that makes me burst with pride—one I believe can stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest in the world. This time, I’m diving into a wine that hasn’t yet been released:

2023 Cabernet Franc Reserve

We have been perfecting Cabernet Franc since we started 25 years ago, and the 2023 Reserve represents the culmination of that experience. Bottled in early 2025 after 18 months in barrel, this wine is the result of a deep collaboration between our vineyard manager, Bill Tonkins, and our winemaker, Emily Hodson. By release, it will have rested in bottle for more than six months—just the right amount of time to let it settle and start to show its full potential.

As always, I evaluate wine using the same sequence: See, Smell, Sip. When smelling, I begin without swirling—this helps detect any faults—then swirl to release the wine’s full aromatic profile.

For example, Viognier has aromas of peach and apricot, and Cabernet Sauvignon has aromas of black currant and mint, which I refer to as the primary aromas. Remember, the nose is infinitely more discerning than the palate when it comes to recognizing specific aromas and flavors in wine.

And when it comes to actually tasting the wine, I am prepared to confirm all those complex aromas I appreciated from the bouquet. It’s hard to explain, but it’s rather like that split second when you see or taste something. You know immediately whether it’s good or bad, as Malcolm Gladwell wrote about in his brilliant book, “Blink.” Such is the case with this wine; the immediate impression is “Wow.” For the analytical reasons I have described, your brain can shortcut and put together a blink impression that this is an outstanding wine.

On tasting, the wine is dry, with a voluminous mouthfeel and silky yet assertive tannins. Cabernet Franc isn’t known for high tannins, but here, the structure is exceptional, balanced, and harmonious. Fruit flavors lead, supported by a hint of earth and mushroom that promises more to come as the wine matures.

And the finish? Long, satisfying, and beautifully persistent—the kind of finish that reminds you you’ve tasted something special. All good wines leave a lasting taste in your mouth, and the 2023 Cab Franc Reserve does not disappoint. Keep an eye out for this wine coming to our shelves soon.

Events

The last two Supper Series dinners have been a huge success. Look out for the next one on July 18th featuring Village Garden RVA, as part of their Summer Supper Somm Series.

But before then, join us for our annual outdoor concert series, Starry Nights, on Saturday, July 12th! We are excited to have The Significant Others on the stage here again at Veritas, and look forward to dancing the night away under the stars.

Wine Club Education with Andrew Hodson

We are planning to offer educational classes for Wine Club Members or anyone interested in attending, where we will taste and compare wines from around the world, both current and from our extensive library of prior vintages.

Keep an eye on your email for more information. Interested in joining our Wine Club? Click here.

Employee of the Season

Bill and Di are back from their world trip on the Cunard Princess Ann, and here they are in George Town, Penang, the capital of Malaysia. The rest of the family is thriving and is ready for summer!

Adieu, Until Next Time

The most overused word in modern-day usage is “unprecedented.” How many times have you heard these are unprecedented times? With the markets in turmoil and the future for all of us being uncertain, it is so important to stick to the principles we were brought up on, the most important of which is respect for the truth, with or without wine. Here at Veritas, as we like to say, in wine, there is truth.

Since today is Father’s Day, for all the Dads out there, remember:

“By the time a man realizes that maybe his father was right, he usually has a son who thinks he’s wrong.” Pianist Charles Wadsworth

From the family and crew at Veritas, have a sizzling Summer and a happy Fourth of July.

Andrew Hodson
Retired Dilettante and Ranconteur